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Any idea/thought travelling through my mind, strong enough to make me sit and write all about it... Also food, my cooking, and any new foodie joints that is worth writing about.

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Kabini (Nagarhole National Park)

Since the little fellow's friend and their family are moving out of India soon, we thought it would be a good idea to go on a trip with them so that the little ones get some good time together. After a lot of dilly-dallying, finally the destination was decided as Kabini, and the dates were finalised for 26/27/28th weekend of November. As usual, the days passed by swiftly and Saturday dawned, pretty much dampened by continuous rains the previous night. Nevertheless, not letting that dampen our spirits, we got together around 6:40 am at our house, and after making sure we had the directions right, we set-off at 7 am. That was not bad at all for us, since we had a record of starting not earlier than 9 am on each of our trips :)

The route was pretty straight forward. We got out of Bangalore on to the Mysore road, and hit the national high-way in around an hour's time. The breakfast stop was KaduMane. After thatte idlis, some good strong coffees and playing with the birds in their little garden later, we set-off once more. The kids had a super time in the car. There was a little bit of traffic at Ramnagaram which slowed us down slightly. When we were entering Mandya (or Maddur, am not sure), we got caught by police for over speeding. Eh? Over speeding? What was the speed limit and where was it written? We asked and were told the limit was 80 and we were at 79. Uh? 79 was lesser than 80 I thought. Realizing he had spoken too fast, the traffic cop corrected himself and said that the speed limit was 70. :P I see? We saw that every person driving on that road was being caught. So we just brushed it aside as a collection drive and paid the money without argument and moved on, a wee bit irritated for being delayed for no fault of ours. After which, we crossed Mysore, and with the help of the 3G on our phone as well as the residents of Mysore, we got on to the road which took us to Kabini. The final stretch of the road was blocked and  there was a diversion on to a kuccha road for the last hour of the trip. Some broken backs later, we finally reached Jungle lodges and resorts, Kabini at 1:30 pm, just in time for a super duper lunch!

The rooms at Jungle lodges

We checked into our rooms and were briefed on what was in store for us. Since it was almsot 2:45 by the time we were done with lunch, we decided to stay around at the Gol-Ghar (which was the lunch area), and relaxed on huge hammocks near-by. At 3:30, they served some tea and biscuits, and then we dragged the sleepy, but not willing to sleep kids, into the jeep for our first safari at Kabini. What stood out was the back-breaking ride. However, no complaints there! We absolutely enjoyed the greenery, sounds of the forests, the huge teak and rose-wood trees, and the simple beauty of nature. Couldn't have been better. The spotting was pretty low though. We saw a few wild boars, tons of deers (oh dee(a)r!), a variety of birds, and one lone elephant at a distance where it was tough for the eye to spot. A wee-bit disappointed, we returned to the rooms and freshened up.

A male sambhar deer

After another dose of tea we went to the Viceroy Bungalow for a movie screening about Wild dogs. Wonderful I must say. Absolutely clear and it was an experience watching the wild dogs hunt the deers down, wild-dogs nursing their little ones and caring for them and so on. The only irony in the movie being the audience ended up feeling sad for the poor deers who were hunted down, where-as the photographer was empathizing with the wild-dogs and their receding numbers and the fact that they were missing their catches! Guess that's the work of nature eh?

After the movie, it was dinner time. A light dinner and some bon-fire later, we crashed into our rooms for a good night's sleep. After what felt like a few minutes, we were given our wake-up call at 5:45 am, to get ready and assemble for our morning jeep safari. We hurriedly shook the poor kids out of their deep slumber, quickly freshened up and assembled at the Gol Ghar for some much needed tea/coffee/milk. Then we packed ourselves into the jeeps and entered the forests, braving yet another bumpy ride. This time, with not so enthusiastic team mates and a bored naturalist, we had to keep our eyes wide open to spot animals ourselves. Hubby proved to be the sharpest of the lot, and he ended up spotting a mother and baby elephant, and a tusker (male) too followed suit. And the best catch of all, he shook us from our reverie on spotting a leopard jump down from a tree!! Wowie. For some foolish reason, I assumed the leopard was just going to hang around in our presence and I had all the time in the world to adjust my camera, zoom and shoot. Stupid me! While I wasted my time doing all this, the leopard saw us, and quietly slunk away into the bushes. Oh no!! No pictures of the leopard. I couldn't believe it. We drove closer to the spot, rather we went exactly to the spot the leopard was in, waited around for almost 20 minutes, but the leopard was wary of humans, and did not return. Oh well, at-least we feasted our eyes on the leopard for about 3 minutes! A wild-cat roaming free in the forests, at a distance of 30 feet from us .... what more could we ask for? Super cool.

We then got back to the resort for some nice hot breakfast of baked beans, bread + butter + jam, upma, kesari bhaath, and so many other varieties. After this, there was a little coracle ride, just for the fun of it, and then we retired to our rooms. The rest of the morning was just chilling around, playing with the kids, chatting and then it was time for lunch. After lunch, we had very little time with us before we got back on to another safari, this time on the boat. We were a wee bit rushed up by the jungle lodges team, as we had to go pick the naturalist Arjun from Orange County, along with the people living in the Orange County as well. A little disappointed at having to skip tea, we set off on the boat ride. The calming effect of the boat ride and the naturalist's interesting tidbits about the birds and animals around us nullified the "no tea" disappointment, and the journey proved to be the most enjoyable one so far.

We spotted the Malabar pied Hornbills. Yeah, so what? Was my first reaction. Arjun claimed it to be one of the most special kind of birds. Why? Here is the story. These horn-bills are the only kind of birds/animals who find a partner and live with this partner for their life-time!! If the male dies, female lives without another partner till her life time, and vice-versa as well. Wow! And when these birds reproduce, the mother stays inside her home (which is a hole in the tree) for the entire duration of laying eggs, incubating and hatching. Both parents close the hole in the tree with mud, tree pulp, their droppings etc., and leave only a small aperture for the father to bring food for the mother and the children. This goes on for close to 90 days, until the little ones are slightly bigger to be able to learn to fly. Interesting! The next time on, when he showed us the horn-bill, I looked up and tried hard to spot it with renewed respect for the bird in my heart!! :)

Croc resting

Our boat driver was one Mr. Nagaraj. The ease with which he spotted birds/animals was just unbelievable. We were lucky to have him and Arjun on our trip. Both of them kept us engaged with their own areas of expertise. Nagaraj took us really close to a crocodile resting on the banks of the river. Since the crocodile is a cold-blooded animal, it needs to regulate its body-temperature. Since the sun was up that day, the croc had come to rest on the banks of the river to take in the warmth. Arjun made sure we kept pin-drop silence, lest we ended up disturbing the crocodile and it had to go back to the waters. The crocodile going back into the waters might have seemed like no big deal to us initially, however, when Arjun explained the reason as to why it was on the banks, we felt really bad once when due to some noise made by an adjoining boat, the croc had to jump back into the waters. Arjun mentioned that once it goes back in fearing attack, it might take days for it muster up courage to come back up on the banks, which could disturb its entire body temperature cycle. Hmm.

Cormorants in their nests

Another interesting fact about a bird called Cormorant (which was aplenty in these waters) was that they do not have the oily lining on their feathers like other birds do. The oil coating helps the waters to drain off from the feathers quickly and hence birds generally are not bothered by the water. However incase of these cormorants, they do not have the oil glands which produce these linings, and hence after fishing for food, they rest on the banks of the river with their wings spread wide apart. So with this renewed piece of knowledge when we looked around, we realized that all the cormorants were actually standing on the river banks with their wings wide apart, drying out their feathers. Awesome!!!

A tusker

After spotting a tusker up-close, we headed back. Arjun egged us to use our binoculars and scan the forest for tigers as it was a huge task to spot tigers. They might just be lying in front of our eyes but we would miss them easily. However hard we scanned, we were not lucky enough to spot a tiger. However, enriched by the information and excited by the entire boat ride, we got back to the resort and spent the rest of the evening chatting about and relaxing in the ayurveda spa that the resort had. What a day it had been. However, we decided to give another shot at spotting tigers. The next morning, we got onto another boat safari. We missed the naturalist this time. However, our boat driver was Nagaraj again, and he made up for that by spotting a water snake this time! We even saw a water snake zoom past us in the water, right next to the boat. Beautiful!

Water snake on the rock

The exciting trip finally came to an end as it was time to check-out after the boat safari. The kids had a blast through the trip as they got to see each other all the time, and they had plenty of time to dig around in the sand and play to their hearts content for these 3 days. We checked out, refreshed and relaxed after three days of safaris and pampering at the resort! What a weekend. :) 

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Jog falls, Tavarekoppa, Bhadra.



Another long weekend meant another trip around Bangalore. Having read about Shimoga and Jog falls in my text books when I was a kid, I was curious to see the famous Jog falls of Karnataka. A marriage in Shimoga was all the excuse we needed to embark on a trip to see the Jog falls. 

We left home around 9 am on Saturday. We took the Tumkur route, crossed Tiptur, Arasikere, Kadur, Birur, Bhadravati and finally reached Shimoga. The main crops around these areas is areca nut or betel nut. So on the way, we found a lot of specialized farm trucks, on which sonny dear went for a ride with his dad. He even got a ride back in a luggage auto. What more could the little hero ask for!


Since we had time till Sunday evening for the wedding, we decided to continue towards Sagara, a place closer to Jog falls. Being a long weekend, all the good home stays around Jog falls had been booked already. We did not get any accommodation initially. However, the people running the home stays around Jog falls turned out to be very helpful, and after a few phone calls, they got us a room at Shankara mutt at Sagara. This place had a room with a double bed and a bathroom and acted as a good overnight dump for us. They did not provide food, and we visited a near by restaurant called Varadhashree lodge, which served good south indian food (and ofcourse filter coffee!!). There was a quaint little Raghavendra swamy temple just next to the mutt. We spent a peaceful one hour there, and saw the preparations going on for the Karthikai (a tamil month) deepam there. The temple trustee was a very helpful person. He took us to the nearby market and introduced us to the owner of a shop which sold wooden artifacts. Sagara is famous for sandalwood and ivory carving. Lot of wooden idols and temple mantaps are carved beautifully and the expressions on the idols are captured wonderfully. We picked a little temple mantap for ourselves and returned to our room to crash for the night. 

Next morning, after a quick coffee at the Varadhashree lodge, we moved on to the market place to see if we could get rice Kadubus. Sagara and Shimoga are famous for this delicacy. However, we were too early for the sleepy village. We had to make do with the usual idly and khara bath from a Mysore cafe, and then proceeded towards Jog Falls which was a 30 km drive from Sagara. 

We heard from the local people that this was not the best time to visit Jog Falls as the volume of water falling was pretty low during this period of the year. So we saw, when we reached there. We decided to climb down the 1900 set of stairs to reach the bottom of the falls and experience the cold water under our feet (and hair for who so ever desired :P)


The climb down was pretty easy, with gravity helping us. We didn't think of the trip back up, and just decided to enjoy the water and the monkeys jumping all around the place. After relaxing for a while at the bottom we decided to start the walk up the 1900 stairs. And boy! wasn't it a tough one. Saving our breaths, taking some quick swings of lemonade, butter-milk and maaza, waiting every few minutes to gaze at the rainbow formation across the falls, we finally made it to the top. After some lunch (We couldn't eat anything it all. Liquids were all we could take), we sat in the car and headed back towards Shimoga. 

On the way to Shimoga, Tavarekoppa wild life safari beckoned us and in we went to take a look at the tigers roaming free and the ferocious leopards safe in their cages (or so we thought). I got the scare of my life here when two leopards pounced on my camera when, in my excitement to take some good pictures, finding a little gap wide enough for the camera lens, I went a tad too close to the cage. To top it, I even had the flash on. We got to see a lot of monkeys playing havoc too. Anyone having a pack of pop corn or biscuits, beware! Please make sure you have it all zipped up in the bag and the monkeys don't even get an inkling that there are eatables. They jumped and grabbed the food from anyone displaying it and walking around the zoo. Wonderful experience it was for our sonny boy. He got an "up, close and real" experience of the monkeys and their antics. 

  
After the safari, we headed towards Shimoga. Got into Samrat Ashok Hotel and Lodge, and after a cup of coffee, went up to rest a while. The evening was spent at the reception of a friend, and after the tiring day, we slept really well that night. 

Monday morning, it was time to move on towards Bangalore. Google maps indicated another interesting place called Bhadra dam, on the outskirts of Bhadravati, which was on our way back. A small deviation from the National Highway took us to Lakkavalli village, where we could  go on top close to the lighthouse near the Bhadra Dam. 


From there we had a beautiful view of the Bhadra river, and also spotted the Jungle Lodges (Bhadra) resort where people were going boating. Our next stop had to be that, so after spending a few quiet moments taking in the scenic beauty from the Bhadra dam, we moved to River Tern Lodges and asked for a boat ride across the river. Another beautiful discovery this. The steam boat took us along the forest edge and we even spotted a tusker on the way. The poor animal got a little perturbed with the noise of our steam boat, and moved away from the water further deep into the jungle. The river tern lodge was a beautiful setup by Jungle Lodges and resorts, with little huts right in the middle of the forested area. Imagine sitting in the balcony of your home looking out at lush greenery and a river beyond with butterflies and birds to give you company. Wow. What beauty and what peace! Dream on. We had to satisfy ourselves with the boat ride. The navigator Deepak gave us some good information about the area and the animal density, and we left for Bangalore promising ourselves that we would come back.