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Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Kabini (Nagarhole National Park)

Since the little fellow's friend and their family are moving out of India soon, we thought it would be a good idea to go on a trip with them so that the little ones get some good time together. After a lot of dilly-dallying, finally the destination was decided as Kabini, and the dates were finalised for 26/27/28th weekend of November. As usual, the days passed by swiftly and Saturday dawned, pretty much dampened by continuous rains the previous night. Nevertheless, not letting that dampen our spirits, we got together around 6:40 am at our house, and after making sure we had the directions right, we set-off at 7 am. That was not bad at all for us, since we had a record of starting not earlier than 9 am on each of our trips :)

The route was pretty straight forward. We got out of Bangalore on to the Mysore road, and hit the national high-way in around an hour's time. The breakfast stop was KaduMane. After thatte idlis, some good strong coffees and playing with the birds in their little garden later, we set-off once more. The kids had a super time in the car. There was a little bit of traffic at Ramnagaram which slowed us down slightly. When we were entering Mandya (or Maddur, am not sure), we got caught by police for over speeding. Eh? Over speeding? What was the speed limit and where was it written? We asked and were told the limit was 80 and we were at 79. Uh? 79 was lesser than 80 I thought. Realizing he had spoken too fast, the traffic cop corrected himself and said that the speed limit was 70. :P I see? We saw that every person driving on that road was being caught. So we just brushed it aside as a collection drive and paid the money without argument and moved on, a wee bit irritated for being delayed for no fault of ours. After which, we crossed Mysore, and with the help of the 3G on our phone as well as the residents of Mysore, we got on to the road which took us to Kabini. The final stretch of the road was blocked and  there was a diversion on to a kuccha road for the last hour of the trip. Some broken backs later, we finally reached Jungle lodges and resorts, Kabini at 1:30 pm, just in time for a super duper lunch!

The rooms at Jungle lodges

We checked into our rooms and were briefed on what was in store for us. Since it was almsot 2:45 by the time we were done with lunch, we decided to stay around at the Gol-Ghar (which was the lunch area), and relaxed on huge hammocks near-by. At 3:30, they served some tea and biscuits, and then we dragged the sleepy, but not willing to sleep kids, into the jeep for our first safari at Kabini. What stood out was the back-breaking ride. However, no complaints there! We absolutely enjoyed the greenery, sounds of the forests, the huge teak and rose-wood trees, and the simple beauty of nature. Couldn't have been better. The spotting was pretty low though. We saw a few wild boars, tons of deers (oh dee(a)r!), a variety of birds, and one lone elephant at a distance where it was tough for the eye to spot. A wee-bit disappointed, we returned to the rooms and freshened up.

A male sambhar deer

After another dose of tea we went to the Viceroy Bungalow for a movie screening about Wild dogs. Wonderful I must say. Absolutely clear and it was an experience watching the wild dogs hunt the deers down, wild-dogs nursing their little ones and caring for them and so on. The only irony in the movie being the audience ended up feeling sad for the poor deers who were hunted down, where-as the photographer was empathizing with the wild-dogs and their receding numbers and the fact that they were missing their catches! Guess that's the work of nature eh?

After the movie, it was dinner time. A light dinner and some bon-fire later, we crashed into our rooms for a good night's sleep. After what felt like a few minutes, we were given our wake-up call at 5:45 am, to get ready and assemble for our morning jeep safari. We hurriedly shook the poor kids out of their deep slumber, quickly freshened up and assembled at the Gol Ghar for some much needed tea/coffee/milk. Then we packed ourselves into the jeeps and entered the forests, braving yet another bumpy ride. This time, with not so enthusiastic team mates and a bored naturalist, we had to keep our eyes wide open to spot animals ourselves. Hubby proved to be the sharpest of the lot, and he ended up spotting a mother and baby elephant, and a tusker (male) too followed suit. And the best catch of all, he shook us from our reverie on spotting a leopard jump down from a tree!! Wowie. For some foolish reason, I assumed the leopard was just going to hang around in our presence and I had all the time in the world to adjust my camera, zoom and shoot. Stupid me! While I wasted my time doing all this, the leopard saw us, and quietly slunk away into the bushes. Oh no!! No pictures of the leopard. I couldn't believe it. We drove closer to the spot, rather we went exactly to the spot the leopard was in, waited around for almost 20 minutes, but the leopard was wary of humans, and did not return. Oh well, at-least we feasted our eyes on the leopard for about 3 minutes! A wild-cat roaming free in the forests, at a distance of 30 feet from us .... what more could we ask for? Super cool.

We then got back to the resort for some nice hot breakfast of baked beans, bread + butter + jam, upma, kesari bhaath, and so many other varieties. After this, there was a little coracle ride, just for the fun of it, and then we retired to our rooms. The rest of the morning was just chilling around, playing with the kids, chatting and then it was time for lunch. After lunch, we had very little time with us before we got back on to another safari, this time on the boat. We were a wee bit rushed up by the jungle lodges team, as we had to go pick the naturalist Arjun from Orange County, along with the people living in the Orange County as well. A little disappointed at having to skip tea, we set off on the boat ride. The calming effect of the boat ride and the naturalist's interesting tidbits about the birds and animals around us nullified the "no tea" disappointment, and the journey proved to be the most enjoyable one so far.

We spotted the Malabar pied Hornbills. Yeah, so what? Was my first reaction. Arjun claimed it to be one of the most special kind of birds. Why? Here is the story. These horn-bills are the only kind of birds/animals who find a partner and live with this partner for their life-time!! If the male dies, female lives without another partner till her life time, and vice-versa as well. Wow! And when these birds reproduce, the mother stays inside her home (which is a hole in the tree) for the entire duration of laying eggs, incubating and hatching. Both parents close the hole in the tree with mud, tree pulp, their droppings etc., and leave only a small aperture for the father to bring food for the mother and the children. This goes on for close to 90 days, until the little ones are slightly bigger to be able to learn to fly. Interesting! The next time on, when he showed us the horn-bill, I looked up and tried hard to spot it with renewed respect for the bird in my heart!! :)

Croc resting

Our boat driver was one Mr. Nagaraj. The ease with which he spotted birds/animals was just unbelievable. We were lucky to have him and Arjun on our trip. Both of them kept us engaged with their own areas of expertise. Nagaraj took us really close to a crocodile resting on the banks of the river. Since the crocodile is a cold-blooded animal, it needs to regulate its body-temperature. Since the sun was up that day, the croc had come to rest on the banks of the river to take in the warmth. Arjun made sure we kept pin-drop silence, lest we ended up disturbing the crocodile and it had to go back to the waters. The crocodile going back into the waters might have seemed like no big deal to us initially, however, when Arjun explained the reason as to why it was on the banks, we felt really bad once when due to some noise made by an adjoining boat, the croc had to jump back into the waters. Arjun mentioned that once it goes back in fearing attack, it might take days for it muster up courage to come back up on the banks, which could disturb its entire body temperature cycle. Hmm.

Cormorants in their nests

Another interesting fact about a bird called Cormorant (which was aplenty in these waters) was that they do not have the oily lining on their feathers like other birds do. The oil coating helps the waters to drain off from the feathers quickly and hence birds generally are not bothered by the water. However incase of these cormorants, they do not have the oil glands which produce these linings, and hence after fishing for food, they rest on the banks of the river with their wings spread wide apart. So with this renewed piece of knowledge when we looked around, we realized that all the cormorants were actually standing on the river banks with their wings wide apart, drying out their feathers. Awesome!!!

A tusker

After spotting a tusker up-close, we headed back. Arjun egged us to use our binoculars and scan the forest for tigers as it was a huge task to spot tigers. They might just be lying in front of our eyes but we would miss them easily. However hard we scanned, we were not lucky enough to spot a tiger. However, enriched by the information and excited by the entire boat ride, we got back to the resort and spent the rest of the evening chatting about and relaxing in the ayurveda spa that the resort had. What a day it had been. However, we decided to give another shot at spotting tigers. The next morning, we got onto another boat safari. We missed the naturalist this time. However, our boat driver was Nagaraj again, and he made up for that by spotting a water snake this time! We even saw a water snake zoom past us in the water, right next to the boat. Beautiful!

Water snake on the rock

The exciting trip finally came to an end as it was time to check-out after the boat safari. The kids had a blast through the trip as they got to see each other all the time, and they had plenty of time to dig around in the sand and play to their hearts content for these 3 days. We checked out, refreshed and relaxed after three days of safaris and pampering at the resort! What a weekend. :) 

6 comments:

Neeraja said...

Very nice write up da! Was interesting to read all the tidbits :). Glad all of you enjoyed :)

Aparna said...

:) Thanks dearie. It was just beautiful. Wish we could all go there sometime and spend a week! Its so relaxing, and GREEEEEEEN!

R Niranjan Das said...

Lovely write up.

www.rajniranjandas.blogspot.com

Aparna said...

Thanks Niranjan!

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